No, I’m not quitting again

NewMexiKen is just on a road trip with Dad, official dad of NewMexiKen. Today we drove from Tucson to Kanab in southern Utah passing the infamous Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell along the way. As a result of the inter-mountain drought Lake Powell is still down 95 feet from its maximum fill, but up 50 feet from its recent low. Some photos:

Lake Powell

Lake Powell with the marina in the distance. Notice the bleached (white) “bathtub ring” rocks where the lake usually is.

Glen Canyon Bridge

Highway 89 bridge over the Colorado River just below the dam.

Glen Canyon Dam

The damn dam.

Kanab, Utah, is an attractively set tiny little town not far above the the Arizona state line. If ever there, try Rocking V Cafe. Good food, nice people.

Cedar Breaks National Monument

… was proclaimed as such on this date in 1933. This from the National Park Service:

Cedar Breaks
A huge natural amphitheater has been eroded out of the variegated Pink Cliffs (Claron Formation) near Cedar City, Utah. Millions of years of sedimentation, uplift and erosion have created a deep canyon of rock walls, fins, spires and columns, that spans some three miles, and is over 2,000 feet deep. The rim of the canyon is over 10,000 feet above sea level, and is forested with islands of Englemann spruce, subalpine fir and aspen; separated by broad meadows of brilliant summertime wild flowers.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore

… was authorized on this date in 1937. The National Park Service tells us:

Hatteras.jpgStretched over 70 miles of barrier islands, Cape Hatteras National Seashore is a fascinating combination of natural and cultural resources, and provides a wide variety of recreational opportunities. Once dubbed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” for its treacherous currents, shoals, and storms, Cape Hatteras has a wealth of history relating to shipwrecks, lighthouses, and the U.S. Lifesaving Service. These dynamic islands provide a variety of habitats and are a valuable wintering area for migrating waterfowl. The park’s fishing and surfing are considered the best on the east coast.

Stay in school

“For the fourth year in a row, Arizona ranks last among the states for its percentage of teens, ages 16 to 19, who have dropped out of school.”

Source: The Arizona Republic

The survey said 12 percent of Arizona kids do not graduate but State Superintendent of Public Instruction Tom Horne says is closer to 6 percent. How could there be this large of a gap? Don’t they take attendance at school any more?

So hot, it seemed like two suns

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That’s the Arkansas River at Tulsa early Saturday — through a window.

Which brings two questions to mind:

1. Why would they build a hotel on a beautiful riverfront and not have balconies?

2. Why was I so slothful I couldn’t go outside to take photos on such a morning?

Devils Postpile National Monument …

was established on this date in 1911. From the National Park Service:

Devils Postpile

Established in 1911 by presidential proclamation, Devils Postpile National Monument protects and preserves the Devils Postpile formation, the 101-foot Rainbow Falls, and the pristine mountain scenery.

The Devils Postpile formation is a rare sight in the geologic world and ranks as one of the world’s finest examples of columnar basalt. Its columns tower 60-feet high and display an unusual symmetry. Another wonder is in store just downstream from the Postpile at Rainbow Falls, once called “a gem unique and worthy of its name”. When the sun is overhead, a bright rainbow highlights the spectacular Falls.

The monument is also a portal to the High Sierra backcountry, with some 75% included in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. At 800 acres, Devils Postpile National Monument may be considered small by some, yet its natural and recreational values abound.

Arkansas Post National Memorial …

was established on this date in 1960. From the National Park Service:

Arkansas Post.jpg

In 1686, Henri de Tonti established a trading post known as “Poste de Arkansea” at the Quapaw village of Osotouy. It was the first semi-permanent French settlement in the lower Mississippi River Valley. The establishment of the Post was the first step in a long struggle between France, Spain, and England over the interior of the North American continent.

Over the years, the Post relocated as necessary due to flooding from the Arkansas River, but its position always served of strategic importance for the French, Spanish, American, and Confederate military. Spanish soldiers and British partisans clashed here in the 1783 “Colbert Raid,” the only Revolutionary War action in Arkansas.

Arkansas Post became part of the United States following the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. By 1819, the post was a thriving river port and the largest city in the region and selected as the first capital of the Arkansas Territory.

During the Civil War, Confederate troops tried to maintain tactical control of the confluence of the two rivers, and in 1862 they constructed a massive earthen fortification known as Fort Hindman at the Post. In January 1863 Union troops destroyed the fort, ensuring control of the Arkansas River.

Today, the memorial and museum commemorate the multi-layered and complex history of the site. Located on a peninsula bordered by the Arkansas River and two backwaters, the site offers excellent fishing and wildlife watching opportunities.

America’s largest cities

According to the Census, these nine American cities had more than one million residents on July 1, 2004:

New York — 8.1 million
Los Angeles — 3.8 million
Chicago — 2.9 million
Houston — 2.0 million
Philadelphia — 1.5 million
Phoenix — 1.4 million
San Diego — 1.3 million
San Antonio — 1.2 million
Dallas — 1.2 million

Big Bend National Park …

was authorized 70 years ago today. From the National Park Service:

BigBend.jpg

Big Bend is one of the largest and least visited of America’s national parks. Over 801,000 acres await your exploration and enjoyment. From an elevation of less than 2,000 feet along the Rio Grande to nearly 8,000 feet in the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend includes massive canyons, vast desert expanses, and the entire Chisos Mountain range. Here, you can explore one of the last remaining wild corners of the United States, and experience unmatched sights, sounds, and solitude.

In Big Bend National Park all roads end at the Rio Grande, the boundary between the United States and Mexico. But far more than two nations meets here. Three states come together at Big Bend: Texas in the United States and Coahuila and Chihuahua in Mexico. Many of the park’s famous, expansive vistas mix scenes belonging to both nations.

Big Bend National Park also marks the northernmost range of many plants and animals, such as the Mexican long-nosed bat. Ranges of typically eastern and typically western species of plants and animals come together or overlap here. Here many species are at the extreme limits of their ranges. Latin American species, many from the tropics, range this far north, while northern-nesting species often travel this far south in winter. Contrasting elevations create additional, varied micro-climates that further enhance the diversity of plant and animal life and the park’s wealth of natural boundaries.

A special place

YOSEMITE — When I was a young child just beginning to walk, my parents took me to this special place where I learned the songs of the birds and the waterfalls, and the wind that blew mist into the air that created rainbows. I remember the intense feeling of comfort, as all of nature sang, and the immense granite walls were so tall that I’d almost fall over backwards trying to see their tops. As if cradled in my mother’s arms, that’s how tranquil I felt, just looking in awe.

Last week we revisited Yosemite Valley and, even after a half century of annual trips, my senses were never so keen. I realized a profound sense of permanency. The ages-old, glacially carved granite provided us solace and resolve that, while much of the world has gone mad, the natural processes here are in order — methodical, timeless and overwhelming. Extraordinary snow melt this year has turned its most famous waterfalls — Yosemite, Bridalveil and Vernal — into most exquisite plumes of frothy white, and allowed a plethora of other temporary waterfalls to drape the walls and spew some 5,000 feet down to the valley floor. Wherever we looked there was water.

Peter Ottesen in the Stockton Record

Link via Yosemite Blog.

Ocmulgee National Monument …

was authorized on yesterday’s date (June 14) in 1934. The Monument is located near Macon, Georgia. The National Park Service informs us:

Ocmulgee is a memorial to the antiquity of man in this corner of the North American continent. The National Monument preserves a continuous record of human life in the Southeast from the earliest times to the present. From Ice-Age hunters to the Muscogee (Creek) people of historic times, there is evidence here of 12,000 years of human habitation.

One period stands out. Between AD 900 and 1200 a skillful farming people lived on this site. Known to us as Mississippians, they were part of a distinctive culture which crystallized about AD 750 in the middle Mississippi Valley and over the next seven centuries spread along riverways throughout much ofthe central and eastern United States. The Mississippians brought a more complex way of life to the region and here they left behind eight earthen mounds and the remains of a ceremonial earthlodge.

More on the name Arkansas

This from the Arkansas Secretary of State — ARkan-SAW or Ar-KANSAS?

At the time of the early French exploration, a tribe of Indians, the Quapaws, lived West of the Mississippi and north of the Arkansas River. The Quapaws, or OO-GAQ-PA, were also known as the downstream people, or UGAKHOPAG. The Algonkian-speaking Indians of the Ohio Valley called them the Arkansas, or “south wind.”

The state’s name has been spelled several ways throughout history. In Marquette and Joliet’s “Journal of 1673”, the Indian name is spelled AKANSEA. In LaSalle’s map a few years later, it’s spelled ACANSA. A map based on the journey of La Harpe in 1718-1722 refers to the river as the ARKANSAS and to the Indians as LES AKANSAS. In about 1811, Captain Zebulon Pike, a noted explorer, spelled it ARKANSAW.

During the early days of statehood, Arkansas’ two U.S. Senators were divided on the spelling and pronunciation. One was always introduced as the senator from “ARkanSAW” and the other as the senator from “Ar-KANSAS.” In 1881, the state’s General Assembly passed a resolution declaring that the state’s name should be spelled “Arkansas” but pronounced “Arkansaw.”

Air and Space and then some

The Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center near Washington Dulles International Airport is the supplemental facility for the National Air and Space Museum of the Smithsonian Institution. Here are displayed many of the aircraft the downtown musuem hasn’t room for — including a space shuttle, the Enola Gay and a Concorde (a gift from Air France). It’s a delight. And free, though parking is an unexplainable $12.

Shuttle.jpg

The shuttle Enterprise, which never flew in space, was used as a flight test vehicle. Impressive all the same.

EnolaGay.jpg

The B-29 Superfortress that dropped the first nuclear weapon nearly 60 years ago.

NotModels.jpg

These aren’t models folks. They are actual aircraft arrayed as if in an acrobatic performance or dogfight.

Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site …

was established on this date in 1960. The National Park Service tells us:

William and Charles Bent, along with Ceran St. Vrain, built the original fort on this site in 1833 to trade with plains Indians and trappers. The adobe fort quickly became the center of the Bent, St. Vrain Company’s expanding trade empire that included Fort St. Vrain to the north and Fort Adobe to the south, along with company stores in Mexico at Taos and Santa Fe. The primary trade was with the Southern Cheyenne and Arapaho Indians for buffalo robes.

For much of its 16-year history, the fort was the only major permanent white settlement on the Santa Fe Trail between Missouri and the Mexican settlements. The fort provided explorers, adventurers, and the U.S. Army a place to get needed supplies, wagon repairs, livestock, good food, water and company, rest and protection in this vast “Great American Desert.” During the war with Mexico in 1846, the fort became a staging area for Colonel Stephen Watts Kearny’s “Army of the West”. Disasters and disease caused the fort’s abandonment in 1849. Archeological excavations and original sketches, paintings and diaries were used in the fort’s reconstruction in 1976.

Bent’s Fort is east of La Junta, Colorado, on the Arkansas River, which was the border between Mexico and the United States from 1819-1848. The present fort is a reconstruction built in 1976.

History is bunk

Detroit’s urban core boasts a rich array of architectural treasures reflecting its role as a major station on the Underground Railroad, an industrial powerhouse, the world-famous “Motor City,” and the home of Motown—but today, many of these treasures are threatened by neglect and a lack of vision. The Statler Hilton Hotel is currently being demolished and the Madison-Lenox, a 2004 11 Most Endangered site, was demolished last month. Belle Isle, once a beautiful park, is now dotted with deteriorating facilities, and the once-grand Park Avenue neighborhood now lies dormant. While individual developers, property owners, and neighborhood groups have forged policies and used available tools to restore some areas, the city administration has been slow to embrace these opportunities and has failed to grasp the lesson that preservation can be a key to revitalization. In fact, a “hit list” recently issued by the city calls for the demolition of more than 100 buildings in preparation for the 2006 Super Bowl.

National Trust for Historic Preservation

Here’s an image of what Detroit chooses for its most historic sites — the demolition of the J.L. Hudson’s main store in 1998. No public place was more vital to Detroit — and this native son — during the years immediately following World War II.

Hudsons.jpg

Pipe Spring National Monument …

was established on this date in 1923. From the National Park Service:

PipeSpring.jpg

Pipe Spring National Monument, a little known gem of the National Park System, is rich with American Indian, early explorer and Mormon pioneer history. The water of Pipe Spring has made it possible for plants, animals, and people to live in this dry, desert region. Ancestral Puebloans and Kaibab Paiute Indians gathered grass seeds, hunted animals, and raised crops near the springs for at least 1,000 years. In the 1860s Mormon pioneers brought cattle to the area and by 1872 a fort (Winsor Castle) was built over the main spring and a large cattle ranching operation was established. This isolated outpost served as a way station for people traveling across the Arizona Strip, that part of Arizona separated from the rest of the state by the Grand Canyon. It also served as a refuge for polygamist wives during the 1880s and 1890s. Although their way of life was greatly impacted, the Paiute Indians continued to live in the area and by 1907 the Kaibab Paiute Indian Reservation was established, surrounding the privately owned Pipe Spring ranch. In 1923 the Pipe Spring ranch was purchased and set aside as a national monument.

Oil boom

From a report in the Los Angeles Times:

Tucked away in the 96-page emergency military spending bill signed by President Bush this month are four paragraphs that give energy companies the right to explore for oil and gas inside a sprawling national park.

The amendment written by Sen. Thad Cochran (R-Miss.) codifies Mississippi’s claim to mineral rights under federal lands and allows drilling for natural gas under the Gulf Islands National Seashore — a thin necklace of barrier islands that drapes the coastline of the Gulf of Mexico.

As a preliminary step to drilling, the rider permits seismic testing, which involves detonating sound-wave explosions to locate oil and gas deposits in the park. Two of the five Mississippi islands are wilderness areas, and the environs are home to federally protected fish and birds, a large array of sea turtles and the gulf’s largest concentration of bottlenose dolphins.

The legislation marks the first time the federal government has sanctioned seismic exploration on national park property designated as wilderness — which carries with it the highest level of protection.

Smithsonian Castle

Castle.jpg

NewMexiKen has often wondered whether we’d have the national museums if James Smithson hadn’t bequeathed his estate “to the United States of America, to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an Establishment for the increase & diffusion of knowledge among men.”

That’s the Smithsonian Institution Building, popularly called The Castle, designed by James Renwick Jr. and completed in 1855. The statue in front is of Joseph Henry, the first director.

Photo taken Sunday evening.

Harry S Truman National Historic Site …

was established on this date in 1983. The National Park Service:

Harry S Truman National Historic Site includes the Truman Home in Independence, Missouri, and the Truman Farm Home in Grandview, Missouri.

Truman Home

Harry S Truman (1884-1972), 33rd President of the United States, lived here from 1919 until his death. The white Victorian style house at 219 North Delaware Street was built by the maternal grandfather of Bess Wallace Truman (1885-1982), and was known as the “Summer White House” during the Truman administration (1945-1953).