was established on this date in 1890.
Category: Places & Travel
Padre Island National Seashore
… was authorized by Congress on this date in 1962.
Padre Island National Seashore, encompassing 130,434 acres, is the longest remaining undeveloped stretch of barrier island in the world, and offers a wide variety of flora and fauna as well as recreation.
Source: National Park Service
Bear with me
A report in this morning’s New York Times:
By all accounts the turnaround of the Yellowstone grizzly is an all-too-rare success story of the Endangered Species Act.
After dwindling to 200 or so by the 1970’s, the number of the big bears in the mountains and grassy meadows around Yellowstone National Park has grown to more than 600, thanks to the federal protections given to the species in 1975. …
While there is widespread agreement that the story is a good one, however, there is disagreement on the next chapter.
The Fish and Wildlife Service, saying that the mission to bring the bear back has been accomplished, will propose removing the bear from the list of threatened species this fall and, after a comment period, make a final decision in 2006. Delisting has happened for only about 15 species out of the 1,830 on the imperiled list.
But opponents of delisting say the bear is still endangered, primarily because of threats to critical food sources.
Both sides say the science is on their side.
America’s first National Monument
President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Devils Tower a national monument on this date in 1906. It was the first landmark set aside under the Antiquities Act.
The nearly vertical monolith known as Devils Tower rises 1,267 feet above the meandering Belle Fourche River. Once hidden below the earth’s surface, erosion has stripped away the softer rock layers revealing Devils Tower.
Known by several northern plains tribes as Bears Lodge, it is a sacred site of worship for many American Indians. The rolling hills of this 1,347 acre park are covered with pine forests, deciduous woodlands, and prairie grasslands. Deer, prairie dogs, and other wildlife are abundant.
Source: National Park Service
NewMexiKen, who has circumnavigated Devils Tower, thinks it should be renamed Bears Lodge.
The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal
… was acquired from the B&O Railroad on this date in 1938. The property became a National Historical Park in 1971. According to the National Park Service:
The C&O Canal follows the route of the Potomac River for 184.5 miles from Washington, D.C. to Cumberland, MD. The canal operated from 1828-1924 as a transportation route, primarily hauling coal from western Maryland to the port of Georgetown in Washington, D.C. Hundreds of original structures, including locks, lockhouses, and aqueducts, serve as reminders of the canal’s role as a transportation system during the Canal Era. In addition, the canal’s towpath provides a nearly level, continuous trail through the spectacular scenery of the Potomac River Valley.
Fort Caroline National Memorial
was authorized on this date in 1950. According to the National Park Service:
Fort Caroline National Memorial was created to memorialize the Sixteenth Century French effort to establish a permanent colony in Florida. After initial exploration in 1562, the French established “la Caroline” in June 1564. Spanish forces arrived 15 months later. Marching north from their newly established beachhead (San Agustin) the Spanish captured la Caroline in September, 1565. Nothing remains of the original Fort de la Caroline; a near full-scale rendering of the fort, together with exhibits in the visitor center, provide information on the history of the French colony, their interaction with the native Timucua, and the colonists’ brief struggle for survival.
Whoa! You mean the French and Spanish were here even before Jamestown and Plymouth Rock?
Assateague Island National Seashore
… was established on this date 40 years ago. The National Park Service tells us:
Storm tossed seas, as well as gentle breezes shape Assateague Island. This barrier island is a tale of constant movement and change.
Bands of wild horses freely roam amongst plants and native animals that have adapted to a life of sand, salt and wind. Special thickened leaves and odd shapes reveal the plant world’s successful struggle here. Ghost crabs buried in the cool beach sand and tree swallows plucking bayberries on their southward migration offer glimpses of the animal world’s connection to Assateague.
Hello, Avis?
Donna, official friend of NewMexiKen, had a harrowing flight this evening. About ten minutes after take off from Salt Lake City she said it felt as it the pilot had hit the brakes. They returned to Salt Lake under emergency conditions, landing with the runways all to themselves.
While they sat on the suspect aircraft the mechanics went to work. Ultimately, the passengers heard a mechanic tell the pilot, “I really think you’ll be OK.” After that, even the pilot seemed unwilling to try again.
So, Donna and her colleagues decided to scramble to another flight. There they found two mechanics working on that plane; something about rebooting the computers. Ultimately she made it back to Albuquerque on the second plane.
And through this all Donna could only remember what her father, an American Airlines mechanic, had warned her — “Never, never fly on an airline that’s in bankruptcy.”
Casualties at Antietam
America’s bloodiest day:
Killed: | Union 2,000 | Confederate 1,550 | Total Killed: 3,650 |
Wounded: | Union 9,550 | Confederate 7,750 | Total Wounded: 17,300 |
Missing/Captured: | Union 750 | Confederate 1,020 | Total Missing: 1,770 |
Total: | Union 12,400 | Confederate 10,320 | Total Casualties: 22,720 |
As a rule of thumb, about 20% of the wounded died of their wounds and 30% of the missing had been killed (in the days before dog-tags to identify the dead). Accordingly, an estimate of the total dead from the one-day battle: 7,640.
Source: National Park Service
Grand Teton National Park
… was formed on this date in 1950 by combining the much smaller National Park established in 1929 (which included just the Tetons and the lakes) and the Jackson Hole National Monument established in 1943. From the National Park Service:
Located in northwestern Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park protects stunning mountain scenery and a diverse array of wildlife. The central feature of the park is the Teton Range — an active, fault-block, 40-mile-long mountain front. The range includes eight peaks over 12,000 feet (3,658 m), including the Grand Teton at 13,770 feet (4,198 m). Seven morainal lakes run along the base of the range, and more than 100 alpine lakes can be found in the backcountry.
Elk, moose, pronghorn, mule deer, and bison are commonly seen in the park. Black bears are common in forested areas, while grizzlies are occasionally observed in the northern part of the park. More than 300 species of birds can be observed, including bald eagles and peregrine falcons.
NewMexiKen photo 1995
Point Reyes National Seashore
… was established on September 13, 1962. The National Park Service informs us:
Point Reyes National Seashore contains unique elements of biological and historical interest in a spectacularly scenic panorama of thunderous ocean breakers, open grasslands, bushy hillsides and forested ridges. Native land mammals number about 37 species and marine mammals augment this total by another dozen species. The biological diversity stems from a favorable location in the middle of California and the natural occurrence of many distinct habitats. Nearly 20% of the State’s flowering plant species are represented on the peninsula and over 45% of the bird species in North America have been sighted.
Polluted paradise
From an article in the Los Angeles Times —
With little fanfare, Sequoia-Kings Canyon has become America’s smoggiest national park. The mountains that John Muir once described as “not clothed with light, but wholly composed of it” have on many summer days the clarity of miso soup. Grand Canyon, Joshua Tree and Great Smoky Mountains national parks get plenty of bad press for their air quality, but Sequoia-Kings Canyon would be fortunate if it had similar conditions. The pollution in Sequoia is less severe than in the Los Angeles basin, but there are more smoggy days here than in Atlanta or New York City.
Canyonlands National Park
… was authorized on this date 41 years ago. From the National Park Service:
Canyonlands National Park preserves a colorful landscape of sedimentary sandstones eroded into countless canyons, mesas and buttes by the Colorado River and its tributaries. The Colorado and Green rivers divide the park into four districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, the Maze and the rivers themselves. While the districts share a primitive desert atmosphere, each retains its own character and offers different opportunities for exploration and learning.
He spells it D-i-l-l-o-n, right?
Highway 61, Visited, an amusing and interesting travel narrative that Bob Dylan fans in particular will enjoy.
California
According to Census estimates, California had 35,893,799 residents last year. That’s one-in-eight Americans.
The state motto is “Eureka,” a Greek word meaning “I have found it.” The “it” being gold.
The California state animal is the Grizzly Bear, Ursus californicus. The animal was designated in 1953, just 31 years after the last one of its kind was hunted down and exterminated.
“I love California – I practically grew up in Phoenix.”
– Dan Quayle
“The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”
– Mark Twain
Fort Davis National Historic Site
… was established on this date in 1961. The National Park Service tells us:
Set in the rugged beauty of the Davis Mountains of west Texas, Fort Davis is one of America’s best surviving examples of an Indian Wars’ frontier military post in the Southwest. From 1854 to 1891, Fort Davis was strategically located to protect emigrants, mail coaches, and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail, and to control activities on the southern stem of the Great Comanche War Trail and Mescalero Apache war trails. Fort Davis is important in understanding the presence of African Americans in the West and in the frontier military because the 24th and 25th U.S. Infantry and the 9th and 10th U.S. Cavalry, all-black regiments established after the Civil War, were stationed at the post.
Delta Is at Risk, Geologist Warns
From Thursday’s Los Angeles Times:
When UC Davis geology professor Jeffrey Mount looks at the images of broken levees and surging floodwaters in New Orleans, he sees the future of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta.
“There is a natural tendency of Californians to look at what is going on in the Gulf Coast as as foreign to us as the tsunami in Indonesia — ‘That’s not something that could ever happen to us.’ — Oh, they couldn’t be more wrong,” Mount said Wednesday.
In a study published in a Bay Area scientific journal last March, Mount and another scientist concluded that over the next 50 years, there is a 2-in-3 chance that a major storm or earthquake will cause widespread levee failure in the Northern California delta, part of the West Coast’s largest estuary and the source of drinking water for more than 22 million Californians. Such a catastrophe would flood reclaimed marshlands that are sprouting housing developments and send seawater rushing into the delta, forcing a shutdown of the enormous pumps that send water south to Central Valley agriculture and Southern California cities.
Take me for a ride in your car, car
Phew. This trip is wonderful, but entirely too much driving.
NewMexiKen and Dad detoured from U.S. 101 to take the “Avenue of the Giants” through part of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. This photo does no justice to the magnificent trees, or to the spooky somewhat primeval feeling one had driving through a forest nearly dark from lack of sunlight reaching the ground. I kept thinking, “Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!”
“The City” as seen early Tuesday afternoon from Sausalito, just before we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge (toll now $5). I think you can see the tilt of the earth in this photo, though possibly I was just holding the camera badly.
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
… was authorized on this date in 1964. According to the National Park Service:
Fort Bowie commemorates in its 1000 acres, the story of the bitter conflict between the Chiricahua Apaches and the United States military. For more than 30 years Fort Bowie and Apache Pass were the focal point of military operations eventually culminating in the surrender of Geronimo in 1886 and the banishment of the Chiricahuas to Florida and Alabama. It was the site of the Bascom Affair, a wagon train massacre, and the battle of Apache Pass, where a large force of Chiricahua Apaches under Mangus Colorados and Cochise fought the California Volunteers. The remains of Fort Bowie today are carefully preserved, the adobe walls of various post buildings and the ruins of a Butterfield Stage Station.
Visiting Fort Bowie requires a three mile round trip hike — unless you use the handicap entrance, which they keep a secret until you show up after walking a mile-and-a-half on a July afternoon with a daughter eight months pregnant and a two-year-old grandson.
Down the coast
NewMexiKen and Dad, official dad of NewMexiKen, continued their mad rush to the Pacific Northwest and back Monday, beginning the return trip with the drive down the Oregon coast — all of it. A dreary, rainy morning (appreciated by us two desert rats) gave way to sunny, nearly cloudless skies, though the temperature rarely rose above 70ºF.
This is the Yaquina Head Light House located at the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area near Newport, Oregon. Unfortunately today the surf was rough and the gray whales that spend the summer off the Oregon coast were nowhere in sight. (“You go on up to Alaska for the summer if you want. I see no reason to do all that unnecessary swimming. I’m going to just stay right here off Oregon. See you on the way back to Baja this winter.”)
Got to love a place that bills itself as the “Outstanding” Natural Area.
Dad takes in the surf further south along the coast.
The view from Debby’s porch
Debby, official younger sister of NewMexiKen, lives in Astoria, Oregon, the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies. Her porch sits about 60 feet above the Columbia River, at sea level here as it nears its outlet into the Pacific. Sunday was cool and rainy with low skies. This was the view looking northwest around 7:20 PM. That’s Washington State across the river.
Yesterday, on the road
NewMexiKen and Dad continued their jaunt to the Pacific Northwest Friday, driving across Oregon on a warm, hazy day. The eastern and central part of the state, even along the Columbia River, was frighteningly dry. The drive through the Columbia Gorge, mostly in Oregon, partly north of the River in Washington, was superb nonetheless.
The Pendleton Mills is in Pendleton, Oregon, of all places. The store offers no discounts (other than for seconds), but is still worth a stop. Seeing so much colorful Pendleton wool in one place is always pleasing. Dad, however, refused to buy a nice Pendleton shirt that he liked when he saw it was labeled “Made in China.”
The Bonneville Dam is just one of many along the Columbia that have turned this once great river into, as one critic put it, “A string of lakes.” The lakes are pretty, but the river would be better. Wouldn’t have all that cheap hydro-electric power then though (note transmission lines in the photo).
On the road again
Today a visit by NewMexiKen and Dad to the Golden Spike National Historic Site north of the Great Salt Lake in Utah. This is the spot where the Central Pacific and the Union Pacific came together on May 10, 1869. NewMexiKen has written about this place here and here and here. With all that I figured it was time to visit.
The place is real, everything else is a replica, including the steam engines, which were built in 1979. Nonetheless a fascinating visit on a beautiful morning.
Jupiter, replica of the actual Central Pacific engine at the ceremony in 1869.
Replica of Union Pacific Engine 119.
Duplicating the famous Kodak moment — without the crowds and without the golden spike, which is actually on display at Stanford University. The originals of both of the historic engines were sold for scrap early in the 20th century for the standard $1000 each.
The Smithsonian’s Newest Exhibits: Water Stains
A report in The New York Times on the “widespread disrepair that is imperiling the collections” at the Smithsonian. The article begins:
It may not be obvious to the throngs of tourists who flock daily to its famed museums, but the Smithsonian Institution is falling apart.
A water stain mars a historic hang glider at the National Air and Space Museum, part of the Smithsonian Institution. Officials say years of inadequate financing and maintenance have led to widespread disrepair.
Ominous drips from strained expansion joints have sprinkled down amid Asian artifacts in the institution’s Arthur M. Sackler Gallery. The historic Arts and Industries Building is closed to visitors to protect them from metal panels dropping from its beautiful but dilapidated ceiling. At the National Air and Space Museum, a water stain mars the Lilienthal hang glider that inspired the Wright Brothers to fly. Even the 1940’s prototypes of what was to become seemingly indestructible Tupperware were irreparably damaged in a plumbing breakdown.
The road trip continues in Utah
NewMexiKen and Dad continued their travels today visiting spectacular Zion National Park and Cedar Breaks National Monument along the way.
A view in Zion from the visitor center parking lot.
Cedar Breaks, looking down from 10,350 above sea level.