In a comment, Bob asked about my “favorite Mexican food restaurant” in Albuquerque.
To answer, I need to begin with some qualifiers.
First, New Mexican cuisine is distinct from Mexican, which has numerous subsets, of course. The New Mexico distinction is chiles, which while part of many Mexican dishes, are to New Mexicans like sauce is to pasta for Italian food. Hence, the state question: Red or green? Chiles are the Pueblo Indian contribution to conventional Mexican food.
Second, my favorite New Mexican restaurant isn’t in Albuquerque. It’s in Santa Fe: Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen. And I like the enchiladas at the Pink Adobe Cafe, though it has gone from one set of owners to another and just last month back to the first, so who knows.
And third, I don’t have a favorite in Albuquerque, though several are OK.
SnoLepard refers to Garduño’s, but the only one of that local chain that I particularly liked was the one on North Fourth, now closed.
I used to think that the Church Street Cafe was exceptional, but it has been disappointing lately.
El Pinto has a delightful physical ambience, especially when the weather permits dining in the courtyards. But El Pinto had become hit or miss for both the food and the service recently. In fact, most recently, it has been miss and the prices keep climbing to pay for all the vanity photos on the walls (and there is the fact that it was George W. Bush’s favorite).
Sadie’s has the hottest chiles. Monroe’s has the best prices and is always tasty. La Hacienda in Old Town was Bill Clinton’s favorite, but not mine. Some like Los Cuates, but I can’t say.
And none of these is the least bit fancy — if you count tablecloths and menus that aren’t plastic-coated as some sort of threshold for fancy.
But even so-so New Mexican food is ahh-some — it makes me hungry just writing about it. And you do understand, that the hotter the chiles the greater the reward. The capsaicinoids result in increased metabolism (also perspiration, runny nose and teary eyes). And the pain leads to a release of endorphins, the body’s natural painkillers, which reward us with blissful feelings.
Hey, they’re all my favorites.