The spirited ghost town

NewMexiKen went to Madrid, New Mexico, Saturday evening for the drive, dinner and a little live music. (Our Madrid is pronounced MAD-rid, not Ma-DRID.) MAD-rid is about 25 miles directly south of Santa Fe on Highway 14, the Turquoise Trail.

Eighty years ago, Madrid was a busy coal-mining town of 3,000 people, boasting of many things, including a minor league ball team playing in the first lighted ballpark in the west. But when coal gave way to natural gas by the 1950s, Madrid died away. The whole townsite was once advertised for sale for $250,000; there were no takers.

But the town was reborn in the 1970s when the son of the original townsite owner began renting and selling properties to artists and craftspeople drawn to the mountains. It has evolved from that to the point that Sunset Magazine last year selected Madrid as one of “The West’s best shopping streets” — True grit, great treasures. (There is really only one street in Madrid. The population of Madrid in 2000 was 149 (and according to one report has decreased by one since.)

“The” place in Madrid on a Saturday night is the Mineshaft Tavern, reputedly the longest bar in New Mexico. The food, a good mix of Mexican and burgers was tasty, service friendly, beer cold. The Mineshaft was recently purchased and, during the lull between dinner and the band, one of the new co-owners, Jeffrey from New York, shared the story of how he came to invest in a town of less than 150 people in New Mexico. Good luck Jeffrey. (Putting an old-time piano player in there during lunch and dinner would be our one recommendation. Or even an old-time player piano.)

MAD-rid is worth two trips. One in the day to see the galleries. And one in the evening to see the charm.